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Jack Martin

Colourist operating from the West Coast who specialises in platinum tones. Among his clientele are celebrated actors and renowned personalities.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

I highly recommend a microfibre towel, or even a smooth cotton shirt to remove moisture from your strands. Most people don’t realise how much harm a typical terrycloth towel can do, especially to lightened or dyed strands. This one small change can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another affordable staple is a broad-toothed comb, to use while conditioning. It protects the hair while detangling and helps keep the health of the hair shafts, particularly post-bleaching.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A high-quality styling iron – made with advanced materials, with adjustable temperature options. Lightened strands can yellow or burn easily without the proper tool.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

DIY bleaching. Social media makes it look easy, but the actual fact is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients severely damage their locks, experience breakage or end up with bands of colour that are nearly impossible to correct. I would also avoid chemical straightening processes on bleached or silver hair. These chemical systems are often too aggressive for weakened hair and can cause long-term damage or discoloration.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their particular strand characteristics. Some overuse toning shampoo until their blonde or grey strands looks flat and dull. A few overdo on strengthening conditioners and end up with rigid, fragile strands. A further common mistake is thermal styling minus a barrier. When applying flat irons, curling irons or blow dryers without a heat protectant, – notably with color-treated strands – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I also recommend scalp formulas with active ingredients to enhance nutrient delivery and promote root strength. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps remove residue and allows treatments to work more effectively. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown great results. They support the body from the inside out by balancing body chemistry, stress and lack of vital nutrients.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, PRP therapy – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be effective. That said, I always suggest getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Thinning can be linked to medical conditions, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

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Anabel Kingsley

Scalp and Hair Scientist and leader in hair health clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How often do you get your hair cut and coloured?

My trims are every couple of months, but will trim off splits at home every two weeks to maintain tip integrity, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Hair-thickening particles are truly impressive if you have thinning spots. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a variety of shades, making it virtually undetectable. It was my go-to post-pregnancy when I had noticeable thinning – and also currently as I’m going through some considerable hair loss after having a bad infection previously. Because locks are secondary, it’s the first part of you to suffer when your diet is lacking, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which premium option is truly valuable?

In cases of hereditary hair loss in females, I’d say medicated treatments. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the best results. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Using rosemary essential oil for thinning. It shows no real benefit. The whole thing stems from one small study done in 2015 that compared the effects of a mild minoxidil solution versus rosemary extract. A low concentration like 2% is insufficient to do much for hereditary thinning in males, so the study is basically saying they provide similarly low results.

Also, high-dose biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

What blunder stands out often?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the real aim of shampooing your hair is to clear away sebum, debris, sweat and pollutants. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the opposite is true – particularly with flaky scalp, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. If natural oils stay on the head, they break down and become inflammatory.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a careful compromise. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it is unlikely to cause damage.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. If you're interested in complementary therapies, or you simply don’t want to or can’t use it, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

With telogen effluvium, investigation is key. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. Sometimes, the cause is transient – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will resolve on its own. Sometimes, hormonal problems or dietary gaps are responsible – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus